CamcoPowerGrip Camper/RV Maximizer 45-Amp Adapter | Combines Power from 15-Amp and 30-Amp Outlets to Generate 45-Amps (55025)

We bought a new RV that was wiped for 50 amp but our electrical outlet at our camp property was 30 amp. But using this adapter and running another extension cord from a 15 amp outlet, we're now able to run both of our AC units. Note - we do have soft starts installed on the AC units. Also note that this adapter warns you not to use on an outlet with GFCI.

I think the product is misleading, though not intentionally. The name of the product and its description give the impression that when you use it, your RV/camper will have access to 45 combined amps. "Combined" is the key word that is misleading. 50A connections on RVs have two "hot pins". The devices in an RV /Camper are wired to receive power from one of these two "hotpins/wires". Think of it like the two phases on your home electrical panel.Many people are used to using 50A to 30A "dog bone" adapters. The way this works is that the campground 30A outlet has a single "hotpin", the adapter splits that single hotwire/pin into two hotpins that are present on the 50A RV connection. Think of it like a fork in the road. Therefore, the two phases in the camper each have access to the same 30A origin power source. Because of this, you can draw really any combination of current you want. You could be drawing 20A on one phase and 10 on the other. 25 and 5. 15 and 15. It doesn't matter. So long as you are pulling less than the 30A that the shore connection provides it good.This device is different. It pulls 15A from one power source and up to 30A from the other. The 30A plug and the 15A plug each have one hotpin, and the power that is received on that pin runs across a wire directly to one of the two hotpins on the 50A plug on this device. In other words, one hot in directly to one hot out. The two hotwires in this device do not overlap/combine in any way. What this means is that unlike the 30A setup described above where the two RV phases have access to 30A as a "pool" of power, this device will supply one phase of your RV with 15A and the other with up to 30A.The problem with this is that it is a crap shoot what is connected to which leg of the RV. For example, you may be thinking "hey, 45A, that will run everything just fine!". But if your AC unit is on the leg/phase that is receiving power from the 15A source, you may not be able to start it. Likewise, on the 30A side you might have more intensive devices that need to be powered. Say you have an AC unit, a fridge, and a DC Converter all on the same phase in your RV, and the combined amp draw for them is 32 amps. Well, even though you have 45A available to you across the two phases, you only have 30 available on that one phase. Hence, you will may not be able to power all three, despire have spare amps on the other phase. These problems become quite relevant when you consider startup amps and the fact that they are higher than operating amps.In other words, you have more combined amps, but you have a lower ceiling for tripping breakers in most instances. This means that you have to consider startup procedures. On a 30A system as described in the 2nd paragraph above you likely could turn on your fridge, then your lights, then your AC. And so long as you never go above the 30A you are good. On this system, especially on the 15A side, you might need to turn things on in a particular order to allow devices to reach their operating amps (lower than startup) before turning on another decive.In case anyone is wondering, you can use a 30-15 (or 30-20) adapter on this to plug this into two separate household outlets if you want to connect your RV to your home. Doing so will exasturbate the "overhead" limit problem as described above, but you can do it without issue (I contacted Camco to verify this).

These are cheater units giving you more power because your plugging in to two circuits in tandem instead of just one.They are cheap & effective in parks that don’t supply enough power to run an air conditioner in your coach, don’t try to run two which will draw to much power & trip the breaker.

Here is what I know about this cable:1) if you plug into one generator, the other male end cable is NOT hot! MANY of these review say so. I will post pics to show that it simply is not true.2) the 120v normal plug end ties ground to ground, hot to one of the 50A hots (the left hot, when looking at ground down), and the neutral ties to neutral, all observable on a VOM.3) the RV30 plug ties ground to ground, hot to the other 50A hot, and neutral to neutral.4) the VOM does NOT show the two grounds on these plugs tied together, even though each is individually tied to the ground on the 50A RV end.When running on two inverter GENERATORS ( I know that most people use this at a campground), a Ryobi 1800/2300 and a Predator 3500, What I found was that the AC voltages on EACH pin of the 50A plug were different, and matched the voltages of the generator tied to that pin That is good. This should be able to run each leg of a load panel separately to the maximum running rating of each generator. What I also discovered is that they are not tied in phase like parallel generators. I don't have an oscilloscope, but if I monitor the ac voltage BETWEEN THE HOTS with an ac voltmeter, I can see it cyle between 0 and 245 volts. This will NOT support a 220/240volt circuit, so no trying to run dryers !

As usual, most bad reviews for this product are from people who don't understand how it works or what it can and cannot do based on the laws of physics. If you know what you're getting into and what the limitations are, this is a very useful device. ;)We had put in a 30-amp socket for our trailer at our house in the past but recently upgraded to a dual a/c 50-amp trailer. Luckily we have a non-GFCI 20-amp outlet nearby in the garage so I bought this to be able to run both air conditioners when we're using the trailer as a guest house. In conjunction with our Progressive Industries PT50C (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC4SWM) I'm able to monitor the current on each leg to know what I can and can't run simultaneously.For those of you who may not know, a 50-amp RV connection actually gives you 100 amps via two independent out-of-phase 50-amp legs. Some devices in your RV are on one leg and some are on the other. While watching the above-mentioned power monitor, you can turn things on and off to figure out which devices are on which leg and how much current they draw.What this "cheater" plug gets you is a 30-amp leg and a 15/20-amp leg, so you still have to be aware of what you're running but you're better off than being stuck with just 30 amps. My living area a/c, microwave, and fridge are on leg 1 (the 30-amp connector). My bedroom a/c, water heater, and battery charger are on leg 2 (the 15/20-amp leg). So I know if I keep the water heater on propane and haven't recently connected drained batteries, I can safely run the bedroom a/c at the same time as the living area a/c on the other leg.Note that you cannot use this with a 15/20 amp GFCI outlet. It will trip the breaker. This means you won't be able to use this at most RV parks because code requires those to be GFCI outlets.

Works perfect, gave me an instant 45 amps compared to 30 amps, highly recommended as long as you do NOT have a GFI outlet.

Dosen’t work on one leg systems.

Saved me, run two air conditioners now.

Works as described. It’s great. We Don’t have to play the game « turn off the ac to use the microwave or the coffee machine ». Don’t work with a GFI outlet.

Works as described, nice to have.