Diamond Stone

This is the missing part of a Sharpmaker. The brown stones don't cut aggressively enough to remove nicks or change the profile angle of an edge. What would take an hour with the brown stones is a few minutes with these. I use the large DMT diamond plates for sharpening woodworking tools, so I'm used to not using heavy pressure. Some reviewers have said the diamonds fall off. Not for me with light pressure. Once you have used diamonds, you will quickly grow impatient with anything else for coarse sharpening. I use the diamonds, then side of brown stones, then side of white stones. I don't use the edges for anything except serrations if they fit, or the occasional hooked blade. It is true you can buy a nice diamond plate and a 4000 grit Shapton glass stone for about the same money as this plus the sharpmaker, but for ease of use I would recommend this for knives (not chisels or other woodworking tools of course). It's much easier to hold the knife vertically than to try to maintain an angle on a horizontal plate. Some people have built stands to hold their stones or plate at a similar 15 or 20 degree from vertical angle, if that appeals to you. If you are only going to sharpen short pocket knives, an alternative is to buy the lansky-style DMT aligner sharpening kit and get the optional ceramic stone for it if you want a polished edge. In addition to learning to feel for the burr and maintaining a constant angle, it's helpful to have a 10x triplet magnifier and look at the edge after each sharpening step. I see plenty of you tube videos where people will go through six waterstones in a ritual to get an edge, when a few more strokes on half that would remove any scratches with much less time. Look at videos from knife makers, not users - they don't waste time.

I have had the Spyderco ceramic sharpener kit for many years, about 20. They work fine for most of my pocket serrated and straight edge knifes , if not too dull. For fine knifes I prefer to use a larger flat Arkansas stone. I got these diamond rods mostly for my serrated kitchen knifes, some of which were ignored for a while. The ceramic rods that came with a kit just required too much time and patience to sharpen . My hand hurt afterwords. I was going to send them to Wusthof to sharpen, but now during CV19 crisis they are closed. So I looked around and found these, new to me diamond rods. I read the reviews and was a bit concerned about the fit. No issues the uncoated end fits just like the original ceramic rods. I used them with about the same touch as ceramic rods holding the knife lightly and stroking down gently as if I wanted to whittle a piece off. The grit on these felt about like a 400 sandpaper, much more aggressive than the ceramic rods which are used best on semi sharp knifes to hone them. No problems with diamonds coming loose, that would take gorilla strokes. It helped to restore old serrated knifes and then I honed them with the ceramic rods. Now I will use the ceramic rods more frequently on them, mostly the brown one. I also use the honing steel rod that came with the knife set after every use, to smooth the edge.

These are a great addition to the Spyderco Tri-angle sharpening system. If I am going to sharpen a knife for the first time on this system I use these diamond sharpeners to make sure the blade edge is honed to the correct angle and to give it a nice even edge. Next I use the finer but "course" ceramic stone that the system came with. Finally I use the white "fine" stone to finish the blade to a shaving sharp edge. After that, as long as I don't abuse the blade, I just use the fine stones the maintain a sharp edge. These diamond rods save me a allot of time by taking material off of the blade much faster than the "courser" stone the system comes with. These also work very well for taking nicks out of a blade, which would take forever with just the ceramic stones.

Makes sharpening a dull blade easy.

I bought a sharpmaker and was pleased with the ease and accuracy of the sharpening. However, sharpening dull knives or changing the angle of a knife takes FOR-EV-ER. I think I made 1000+ passes just on one side of my old, extremely dull kitchen knife using the coarse stone included with the Sharpmaker. The diamond pair takes off much more knife with a pass and I had a burr formed on the same knife after only 100 passes or so. Other dull knifes took between 50-200 passes to form a burr on the entire edge using the diamond edge. So I would say that if you are going to use the Sharpmaker, these diamond pairs are a necessity unless you want to spend 8 hours sharpening dull knives or reprofiling edges. My complaint is that Spyderco doesn't have anything coarser. I guess I should be using a file on extremely dull knives or when reprofiling but I'm kind of a perfectionist on my blade angles and I worry that I will screw up the angles if I do the filing by hand. I would like to see a pair that you can purchase that really bites into the knife and can reprofile with 20-50 strokes. 200 passes is a long time to sit and go over the same edge just to get a burr.

These arrived quickly and well-packaged, with each rod wrapped and placed in its own plastic tube. As mentioned in my review of the Sharpmaker system, these diamond rods are the missing link that bring it all together: the difference maker between a honing station and a true sharpening station to bring dull blades back to life. The key with these is to go nice and slow, applying very little pressure. Some other reviews mentioned a poor fit of these rods into the base of the station, but I did not have that problem. These rods were very clearly designed to fit onto the triangular holes on the base of the system and fit and function the same as the stock medium and fine rods.

Expensive, but these are a must. If your knife ever gets too dull it can be really hard to sharpen with the brown stone that comes with the Spyderco sharpener. It is just too fine. These diamond triangles are more aggressive and a few strokes gets your knife ready for the fine work of the brown and white triangles.

First off I see people saying the sharpmaker doesn't work but it does! If you watch the video instructions they leave out the most important part which is your knife must be already at the angle the SM is made for. If it's not it will cause your blade to be worse off. You can't reprofile good steel with the basic brown rods that come with the sharpmaker and it would take a long time to do cheap steel. This is the mistake most people make and get frustrated. These Diamond stones will get the job done, they will cut quick and reprofile your blade quickly and effectively. If you are using your Sharpmaker to sharpen any knife other than a Spyderco you will need a set of diamond stones! These are well made and will last a long time, just don't apply pressure. Let the stones do the work, and they will quick.

Hallo, ich besitze nun seit Jahren den Spyderco Sharpmaker. Leider konnte ich diesen bisher nur eingeschränkt einsetzen, nicht ohne Grund trägt das Produkt inoffiziell den Namen "Sharpkeeper". Das Problem ist nämlich, dass sehr stumpfe Klingen, vielmehr aber Klingen mit einem größeren Schleifwinkel als 40 Grad, nicht effizient mit den zwei unterschiedlichen Körnungen des Sharpmakers geschliffen werden können. Es wird einfach zu wenig Material abgetragen, sodass zum Beispiel bei einem Messer mit 50 Grad nur an den Seiten geschliffen wird, nicht aber unten an der Klinge, wo man einen Grat erreichen möchte. Da der Sharpmaker nur maximal 40 Grad Winkel untersützt, muss man also die Klinge auf 40 Grad schleifen und demzufolge sehr viel Material abtragen. Das funktioniert mit den Diamant-Schleifsteinen super! Ich konnte mit diesen Messer in 10 Minuten auf eine Grundschärfe bringen und endlich einen Grat herstellen. Dazu sei gesagt, dass ich nicht die offizielle Schleiftechnik benutze, sondern für mehr Materialabtragung ungefähr 40 Mal auf einer Seite schleife und hierbei auch mit Kontakt am Stein hochziehe statt nach dem herunterdrücken abzusetzen und neu anzulegen. Danach wechsel ich die Seite und folge daraufhin der Anleitung und schleife wie gewohnt abwechselnd. Kleiner Tipp: um festzustellen, ob man auf einer Seite genug Materiel abgetragen hat kann man mit einem Filzstift die Schneide markieren, wenn die Farbe bis zum Grat weggeschliffen wird kann man aufhören. Auch liegt dem Produkt ein Warnhinweis bei ausdrücklich darauf hinweist, nicht zu viel Druck auf die Klinge auszuüben, da sich sonst die Diamantstückchen lösen können. Mit leichtem Druck wird auch genug Material abgetragen. Ich kann die Diamantsteine nur wärmstens empfehlen, diese sind ein absolutes Muss für jeden Sharpmaker-Besitzer, ohne diese kann man stumpfe Messer nicht effizient schärfen.

This additional set of sharpening "stones" for the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker (actually they are a pair of hollow steel triangles coated in industrial diamonds) sorted out knives that were particularly dodgy (having been through the AnySharp Knife Sharpener -- not recommended!). A worthwhile addition to the main device.

Drawing the blade in a downstroke is akin to riding a bicycle down some steps. Instead, I start with the hilt end of the blade on the bottom of the rod and then draw the knife upwards and backwards on each stroke. This is much smoother and easier to develop a feel for what's happening and this motion quickly defines the blade apex and develops a wire burr on the opposite side. I usually start with up to 5 strokes on one side to develop the burr, switch to the other side to knock that burr off and define the other angle, repeat as necessary and taper down to one stroke alternating between sides to achieve a rough working edge. Move to the coarse and then fine or superfine rods to finish the blade. Some steels work best with a coarser, toothier edge while others benefit from additional finishing. An app I found on the Play Store, Knife Steel Composition is helpful. It tells you the steel composition and percentages, a brief history of the steel's purpose and development and often includes comments related to sharpening. Fine grained steels like smoother finishes, larger carbide steels often cut better if left toothier. In any case, I usually finish my blades on a strop, sometimes with compound on the flesh side, sometimes not. This helps to remove traces of the wire burr and finishes the blade edge to a nice smooth cutter.

Indubbiamente costose ma di ottima fattura e di durata molto lunga. Non vedo errori o difetti di sorta (a parte il prezzo, che comunque è legato alla qualità). Il sistema id affilatura è molto semplice e quindi molto pratico anche a persone non completamente in grado di affilare una lama mediante una pietra.

Ces barres ne sont pas données mais elles sont efficaces, j'ai pu récupérer le tranchant d'une lame vraiment très abimée en assez peu de temps, sans forcer (il ne faut surtout pas forcer sur ces tiges sinon elles perdent leurs qualités abrasives)