Inlet Module Plug Fuse Switch Male Power Socket 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14

I have actually purchased two of these inlets. They are the same type of connector used for power on most computers. I was able to use an old computer power cable with this. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of these considering the low price point. The contacts can be soldered to or you can use quick disconnect lugs.These inlets do not include a fuse, which is required to use the unit. The contacts are arranged so that the current must flow through the fuse. But these fuses are easy to find, standard fuses. They're about $0.15 each from an electronics supplier. Some people don't realize that the reason a fuse isn't included is because of the wide range capacities. If you're buying this, then you probably have some knowledge of electronics and it's easier for you to determine the best option for your application.

While this is rated at 250 volts, it will work with 110 V just fine. Comes with one 10 amp slow blow fuse. You can find replacements at Radio Shack for about $3.50 for a bag of 5 or so. Allows you to use the switch or bypass the switch, depending on how you connect it. The flange around the body of the unit is not very wide, so you need to measure and cut carefully when you're cutting into a project box, or you will see the hole past the flange. Otherwise, works just fine.

The Product worked as intended I didn't have any problem finding the GMA Style / 5mmX20mm fuses at my local Walmart. Fuses cannot be included with this device since the fuse needs to be sized to the application. As said by others there is no schematic for the connections but it is quite easy if you know what your doing. If you don't you shouldn't be playing with high voltage anyway. Either way I posted a picture of the common schematic for this product.

Nice package - as mentioned by other reviews this does not include the fuse, or instructions for connections.The switch is a two pole single throw switch. One pole is between terminals 1 and 1a, the other between terminals 2 and 2a.There is a light powered from terminals 1 and 2.To connect so as to have the light on constantly - so the light helps you locate the switch regardless if it is turned on or not, or indicates that there is power connected to the switch - connect the incoming power (L and N) to terminals 1 and 2. When the switch is turned on, it will output the incoming voltage to terminals 1a and 2a.To connect so as to have the light come on only when the switch is turned on - so the light lets you know whether the switch is turned on or not - connect the incoming power (L and N) to terminals 1a and 2a. When the switch is turned on, it will output the incoming voltage to terminals 1 and 2.

It needs to be clarified that the switch in this is only rated for 125V/10A or 250V/6A. The description implies that this is rated for 250V/10A which it is not. Other than the advertising issue the item is very well made and performs as described.

These inlets are nice, and will do the trick just fine. It would have been nice if the fuse came with it, or if it came with schematics or directions, but it was easy enough to figure out. I ordered 2 and unfortunately only 1 of them came with the fuse holder, which kinda stinks.

I'm using these for my home-made audio plate amplifiers. It is the only one on I could find on Amazon that has 1) A fuse 2) A lighted switch 3) 2-screw flange. Great price, works as intended.

I used this to supply power to my house wiring that I ran for all of my IR motion detector outdoor lighting. I wanted a way to get power from my computer UPS to the lighting. It has a built in fuse and a lighted switch. I cut a mounting bracket from a plastic switch plate and screwed it to a single gang box mounted in the wall.