ELEGRPSingle Pole Occupancy Motion Sensor Light Switch, Need Grounding Wire No Neutral Wire, 120° Sensor Coverage PIR Infrared Motion Activated, for CFL/LED/Incandescent Bulb, UL,1 Pack, Matte White

Easy to install, look great , and work perfect.

I have installed 4 of these units. All work well, easy to install and set up.Oldest unit is four years and still working well.

Installed in my bathroom, the far wall is about 7 feet away from the face of the switch and while in the bathroom the switch would only switch on when very close and turn off after the set time if we are 2 feet away.1 week update; after trying to understand the reason for the switch not working properly, I decided to take the sensor cover off, and cleaned the sensor with a Q-tip and alcohol. still not great, i then decided to clean the translucent cover with some soapy water in and out, and voilà! the sensor started picking up motion correctly.my explanation to what might have happened is; grease from handling, dust, and other contamination block the lenses from picking up a clear IR image, much like when you use glasses and you rub your hand on them (you might see, but pretty sure you won't be able to read anything) same with the sensor, the cover and even inside behind the cover oils and contamination mask the IR sensor and it stop working correctly.

I love this switch. I put it in my man cave bathroom and it works very easily. Just walk into the bathroom and the light comes on. Walk out and it goes out by itself after a short time, less than a minute. Of course it does have an option of touching it to turn it on and off but what’s the purpose of that if you’re buying this in the first place. Looks good and the benefit it it’s touchless.

I got a 6-pack and probably will get another as I am finding more places for this to be in the house where it's very convenient not to have to turn lights on and off when needed. I started in the pantry with a 1-minute switch off. My wife loves to leave the lights on when she leaves, so this is perfect to put in all the places where the lights do not need to stay on all the time. The kids' bathroom was next, and our walk-in closet was next after that. There was more to come! I love the look of this switch too! It's sleek and modern and has that cover that hides the screws so it's good-looking.

MOTION SENSOR LIGHT SWITCHI am NOT an electrician, and this little project scared me, because I don’t like messing with AC current.I did, however, manage to flip the breaker (cut the power) and successfully install this switch. This, despite the fact that my house was built in 1977. Before I ordered this, I took the old plate off of the old switch and looked inside to see if there was a ground. I did see some shiny copper in the back of the tiny old switch box, assumed it was ground (it was), and bought this switch.If any of you have a house like mine, you will realize that every light switch has two black wires attached to it. One wire is the LINE, and one is the LOAD. Without getting into the physics of AC current, this essentially means the SOURCE of the current, and the DESTINATION. Again, not an accurate physical description, but, a logistically apt metaphor.BONUS #1: This switch doesn’t require a ‘neutral’ connection. That is to say, you don’t have to cut into the ‘white’ wires in the box. BIG PLUS for me, as this little switch box seemed to be a fairly major junction for the rest of my house…Anyway, the first step (after cutting the power, of course), was to unscrew the old switch from the box. It became clear what was LINE and what was LOAD. Almost everything was connected to LINE, and there were a couple of wires that headed out to the garage lights that I wanted to control – the LOAD. After that, it did take a little while for me to disconnect the old switch, that was almost as old as I am, from the black leads.Then I had to turn to the ground. It was all kinds of shiny copper in the back of my switch box (behind all of the white wires). I used the same small screwdriver that I used to remove the old plate and switch to pull the wires forward. I then started to connect the new switch, by wrapping the green wire (right handed, as that’s the way the nuts twist on) around the end of the collection of ground wires, and screwing on the wire nut.BONUS #2: The 3 wire nuts that are included are long for their size, helping to protect against any short circuits; and, are pretty sturdy when you are screwing them on.I then proceeded to do the same with the LINE and LOAD wires, wrapping the black and red wires (respectively) first. However, I did find that the exposed wires that came out of my old switch to be too long for comfort, and trimmed them back before screwing on the nuts.With everything connected, I carefully stuffed (if there is such a thing) all of the wires back into the box, and screwed the new switch into place.It acted a little weird, at first. I say this because the switch, lights, and breaker box are all in my garage; so, I could see what happened when I flipped the breaker back on. The lights came back on immediately, then went back off, then came back on. All in under two minutes. I read somewhere that you should allow the switch to ‘boot’, whatever that means.After the ‘boot’ period, though, EVERYTHING HAS WORKED GREAT! I am so tickled. Something so simple has made such a wonderful difference in my life. We have dealt with this garage light problem every since we bought our house almost 22 years ago. Soooo awesome!Even my wife is skeptically excited. Her comments were, ‘It works!’. Shortly thereafter, she asked me to turn on the light in the laundry room for her. I told her that if she liked the garage thing, that I could do the same for the laundry room.BONUS #3: You can still cut your lights on and off manually. This wasn’t clear to me in the descriptions; but, regardless of your settings, you can use the ‘button’ to both turn on AND turn off your lights. However, and this makes sense, after you manually turn OFF your lights, there is a 30 second period before motion will turn the lights back on.

Tried this out because it seemed to look more modern than the rest and it had the sensor on the bottom with a bigger push button than most. I figured the way the top part looked maybe there was a light glow to the switch, but there's not.The minimum sensitivity on this is 15 ft. I was hoping it was more like 2 ft. But of course that's not listed anywhere in the ad description. Other motions switches I've owned had very short sensitivity on the lowest setting.Turning the light on and off - the switch has a delay. If you click the button too fast it won't work between on and off. You have to wait a second or two or three maybe sometimes before it will activate the light again.I've also noticed a blinking red light in the sensor part, I'm not sure when that happens but the light was off and I seen it blinking. That would be annoying if it happens regularly and you're in that room when it's dark.Attached the instructions for you.Going to have to try another brand.

This sensor switch may be basic, but it's certainly durable. I've had it installed for several years now, and it's still going strong. Despite its simplicity, it gets the job done reliably, activating the lights whenever motion is detected and helping to conserve energy when the room is vacant. Plus, the fact that it doesn't require a neutral wire makes installation a breeze.

I bought 3 of these after seeing great reviews but tried installing all 3 they didn't work !!

Installed as per specs never worked

El interruptor es muy bonito estéticamente a diferencia de otros, es lo que más vale la pena el diseño, las opciones que traer son fácil de configurar.Pero tiene dos detalles, para instalarlo si necesitas la tierra física que viene siendo el cable verde para que funcione, si no lo conectas no realiza el corte de energía, y la otra es el sensor yo lo tengo en un baño pequeño y luego no detecta bien el movimiento incluso estando a dos metros de el y esto hace que se apague

Muy muy bueno, muy recomendable